We now produce two Rebel LED boards.  Both are gold plated, copper clad boards for the Luxeon Rebel LED.  We present the Rebel Square and the Rebel Circle. 

Both designs standard FR4 copper boards with captive mounting holes that are bonded top and bottom to transfer heat down to any normal heat sinking mounting surface below.   We have also added some bonded through hole vias to increase the bonding between the top and bottom of the board.

These boards are extremely easy to work with and soldering couldn't be easier because you can apply heat from the bottom of the board until the LEDs settle into place on top of the board.  Heating from below removes almost all risk of damage to the LEDs from heat.   Almost anyone without formal technical soldering skills can work this board.

Normal copper clad board are the best for LEDs and nothing works better for the Luxeon Rebel LEDs.

Click here for Rebel Square Board Prices and Services

Click here for Rebel Circle Board Prices and Services

Low Cost

Rebel Boards are built on standard well understood copper RF4 technology.  The top and bottom layer are joined by heavily plated vias through the board.   This approach is a standard in the industry and it is a time tested approach to thermal management. 

Superior heat sinking design with heavy copper vias and copper base

The physics are pretty simple.  Very few metals beat copper for heat sinking capability.   The longitudinal  channels in the copper serve as "wells" to help contain excess silicone heat sinking compound.  Excess compound can also easily exit through the vias.   There is no danger in trapped heat sinking compound putting upward pressure on the board (causing some other larger metallic LED boards to warp when mounted)

Enclosed /Captive Anchor Points

In our efforts to ensure the very best heat sinking, we bonded the mounting holes down through to the base.  This effectively insures the very best in heat transfer by directly involving a metallic mounting screw in the process.

Ever tried mounting a star with two or three screws?  Their "notched" approached to mounting is a pretty ill conceived solution.

As a bonus we also offer drilling templates.  You can use these template to create the 1mm pilot mounting holes then follow up with full size holes to match your choices in mounting screw.  Does anyone else in the industry offer drilling templates to make your job easy? 

Our square product is exactly 12mm by 12mm.  The circle is 22mm in diameter.  These are literally the smallest and most efficient designs available.     The squares can be lined up for a straight line or placed in groups of square for a very high density solutions.

If you have previously used Luxeon Stars or other products built on top of aluminum based boards like the Endor Star, then you are aware of how difficult it is to solder wires to them.   The solder pads on these aluminum based boards are heat-sinked by the aluminum.   Those pads are difficult to warm up under a soldering iron.  In our Rebel designs, we allow the copper pads to be in a more insulated area and so soldering to them in just like soldering on a normal circuit board.   Soldering is easy, fast, and neat.

Ever tried to wire an star LED in series?  The wires are all over the place.  The star design is poor for wiring LEDs in series.  This problem is compounded when you want to create a dense arrangement of LEDs.  The Rebel Square solves that problem by giving you an easy path for in-lining LEDs.

Click on this picture for a better view.  Is there any question in your mind how the LEDs are wired?  Could this design be any more intuitive?  This is an example of a common cathode driven circuit.   You can just reverse the wiring pattern for common anode.  Or, wire them all separately as needed. 

The board is really easy to work with.   You can hand solder this board with very simple tools.  With solder paste, and a simple hot air soldering station almost anyone can mount the LEDs in their work shop.  This further reduces your costs and allows you to make repairs on one LED without throwing away an entire board.  With some experimentation you should also be able to apply heat from a soldering iron on the bottom of the board and effectively melt the solder paste from below.   However, care would need to be taken that you don't transfer solder on to the bottom of the board as you want the bottom of the board to sit flat against a heat sink.